叹为观止的杰出创新 伯爵Emperador Coussin XL 700P腕表

2016-1-27 08:46| 发布者: admin| 查看: 21910| 评论: 0

摘要: 叹为观止的杰出创新 伯爵Emperador Coussin XL 700P腕表 为庆祝于1976年面世的首款自主研制超薄7P石英机芯诞生40周年,PIAGET伯爵隆重推出Emperador Coussin XL 700P概念腕表,限量发行118枚。这款腕表开创新猷,破天荒结合机械机芯及石英推进器,彰显PIAGET伯爵传承已久的两大匠心工艺。PIAGET伯爵一直凭借超卓工艺与无限创意,于 ...

叹为观止的杰出创新 伯爵Emperador Coussin XL 700P腕表



       [腕表之家 2016日内瓦钟表展] 为庆祝于1976年面世的首款自主研制超薄7P石英机芯诞生40周年,PIAGET伯爵隆重推出Emperador Coussin XL 700P概念腕表,限量发行118枚。这款腕表开创新猷,破天荒结合机械机芯及石英推进器,彰显PIAGET伯爵传承已久的两大匠心工艺。PIAGET伯爵一直凭借超卓工艺与无限创意,于超薄机芯的研发领域中独占鳌头;更研创出一系列独家石英机芯,搭载于各式PIAGET伯爵女装腕表及珠宝腕表之中。Emperador Coussin XL 700P被振频高达32,768赫兹的石英装置所驱动,它将推进器的振频控制在5.33次/秒,为PIAGET伯爵两大制表领域的精湛工艺竖立最佳明证。这枚自主研发的「发动器」精准度傲视同侪,搭载于直径只有46.5毫米的枕形表壳中,彰显Black Tie系列的贵族气派及腕表的刚劲线条。




       PIAGET伯爵于创新机械机芯领域的卓越成就备受认同,超薄腕表的制作工艺更是无出其右。品牌40年来不断激发创意,搭载石英推进器的Emperador Coussin XL 700P是PIAGET伯爵向其石英机芯研发与生产的致敬之作,彰显品牌制表工艺的另一层面。PIAGET伯爵专利石英机芯于1976年诞生,7P机芯更是完全自主研发及生产。当时钟表界掀起石英革命,瑞士在研发领域中催生多项史无前例的创举(例如1970年瑞士纳沙泰尔Centre Electronique Horloger成功研创举世知名的Bêta 21机芯),PIAGET伯爵亦参与其中,其后透过自主研创机芯,PIAGET伯爵再次向世界展示精湛制表工艺及破旧立新的能力。这枚当时世界最纤薄机芯,厚度只有3.1毫米。自此之后,PIAGET伯爵持续扩充高性能石英机芯系列,成为驱动大部分女装腕表及珠宝腕表的心脏。而Emperador Coussin XL 700P亦引进设计空前绝后的设计,将机械机芯及石英推进器破天荒结合,以当代工艺融合两大历史悠久的专业制表工艺,并配上充满代表性的几何腕表造型。



精湛制表工艺造就出色稳定性能
       Emperador Coussin XL 700P堪称稀世珍品,限量发行118枚,搭载以推进器调节的超薄机械机芯,象征PIAGET伯爵首次将瑞士制电子调节系统的精准可靠,融入于品牌经典的倒置结构机芯之中。这项杰出的制表成就,包罗十多项专利申请,是PIAGET伯爵按1972年首次登记专利的原创瑞士概念为雏型,经过为期2年的研发而诞生的技术结晶。与此同时,PIAGET伯爵亦透过自主研创的著名7P超薄石英机芯,展示品牌的灵活技术。为了向7P机芯致敬,PIAGET伯爵决定将全新的电子调节自动上链机芯以「700P」命名。振频高达32,768赫兹的石英驱动着推进器和齿轮组,能有效对抗磁场及地心引力,达至分秒不差。这个装置进而以5.33次/秒的频率运作,搭载于造型独特、对多种动能兼容并包的机械机芯之中。



 

肩负「Black Tie」系列之名的卓越及时尚设计

       机芯采用倒置结构,腕表的主要功能元素于表面上一览无遗。偏心式机芯摆陀及推进器形成「8」字之姿,而偏心式时、分针于锥形的时标上掠过。设计刻意移除表盘,黑色涂层枕形机芯尽展各种巧夺天工的传统润饰,包括镌刻有伯爵家族徽章的太阳放射状机刻饰纹微型摆陀及倒角表桥、磨砂环形饰纹摆轮及银色螺丝。深黑色机芯配衬黑色ADLC涂层金质表圈。Emperador Coussin XL 700P在精巧润饰及对比设计的点缀下,充分彰显Black Tie系列的贵族风采。腕表以46.5毫米直径的白金枕形表壳包覆,饰以圆形表圈,展示品牌的经典元素及「形中有形」的匠心工艺。崭新的伯爵700P机芯将传统与创新、大胆与细腻、高超机械与工艺精准度精妙结合,完美演绎这个无比时尚的设计。





        Emperador Coussin XL 700P令人惊艳,造型别具一格,充分流露气派优雅的独有魅力,配合浑然天成的匠心工艺元素,势必获得独具慧眼的鉴赏家青睐。



Piaget Emperador Coussin XL - 46.5毫米
18K白金表壳
小型蓝宝石水晶底盖
表圈覆有黑色ADLC涂层
白金材质推进器及微型摆陀
银色时标
搭载伯爵700P黑色超薄自动上链机械机芯及石英推进器
功能:时、分,动力储存显示
动力储存:约42小时
机芯厚度:5.5毫米
高振频机械机芯:32,768赫兹
直径:34.9毫米 (15吋半)
宝石数目:32
零件数目: 298
细节修饰:环形日内瓦波状饰纹,环形饰纹主夹板,倒角表桥 , 机芯摆陀镌刻有伯爵家族徽章,银色螺丝
黑色鳄鱼皮表带
18K白金折叠式表扣
限量118枚
G0A41041

Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P Watch With Quartz Regulator

 Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P Watch With Quartz Regulator Watch Releases Well, this Piaget limited edition watch for SIHH 2016 wasn't expected, but it is certainly interesting. People will definitely be talking about Piaget's $70,000+ mechanical/quartz hybrid that, in design, borrows from the previously released Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon (hands-on here). Visually, just by looking at the watch, you'd have no real way of knowing that it contains a piece of more-modern technology in addition to its "mechanical backbone."
According to Piaget, this limited edition Emperador Coussin XL 700P is dedicated to the 40th anniversary of the first quartz watch movement that Piaget developed in-house back in 1976-  the caliber 7P. Piaget continues to offer quartz movements for most of its women's watches, and it isn't alone in doing so, as many high-end women's watches from brands such as Cartier, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet all contain quartz movements. This is, however, exceedingly rare when it comes to the same for high-end men's watches from these brands.

 Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P Watch With Quartz Regulator Watch Releases 

Inside the Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P is the in-house produced 700P movement which is new for 2016. In essence, it is probably similar to something between a Seiko Kinetic and Seiko Spring Drive from a technological standpoint. Though at this price level, you are going to see a lot more high-quality finishing and attention to "luxury" detail. The 700P movement is mostly mechanical, especially when it comes to the fact that it is powered by a spinning automatic rotor. Piaget hasn't mentioned a mainspring in their documentation, so I assume that the spinning of the automatic rotor directly charges a capacitor which then feeds energy to a quartz crystal-based regulation system, this is why the concept is so similar to that of a Seiko Kinetic. The 700P doesn't have a "battery" in the sense that the power reserve is only 42 hours when fully "charged."

 Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P Watch With Quartz Regulator Watch Releases 

Piaget designed the 700P to replace the traditional mechanical balance wheel and escapement with an electronic quartz regulator that is hidden from view when looking at the movement. Like I said, when viewing the movement, a trained eye can easily tell it isn't a traditional mechanical caliber, but it obviously isn't a quartz movement either. I believe Piaget's goal was to once again introduce the concept of a fine Swiss quartz movement similar to those that existed in the 1970s starting with the famed Beta 21. Aesthetically, the 700P looks beautiful with its hand-finished parts and combination of light and dark elements. The movement is produced from 298 parts and operates at the typical quartz frequency of 32,768 Hz.

 Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P Watch With Quartz Regulator Watch Releases 

The funny thing is how the Piaget documentation discusses the benefits of quartz versus mechanical timekeeping as though it was new. Actually, for some people it may be. The bias against quartz watches among luxury watch lovers is so deep that I am pretty sure many mechanical watch lovers don't even know many of the specifics of how quartz movements work, or why there were so preferred to mechanical movements from a performance perspective when they first started to become popular in the late 1960s and especially during the 1970s.

The 700P is 5.5mm thick as a movement, and the entire watch case is probably twice that thickness with a case diameter of 46.5mm. The Emperador Coussin XL retains its hip cushion-shape in 18k white gold with a black ADLC-coated bezel giving it a bit more of a sporty look. On the dial is a solid gold and engraved micro-rotor that connects directly the "quartz generator" and also a subsidiary dial for the time. I am not totally sure, but I believe there is further visual movement from the element on the dial to the upper right - which is supposed to spin at a rate of 5.33 turns per second.

 Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P Watch With Quartz Regulator Watch Releases 

On the back of the watch is a visible power reserve indicator which is very interesting for this type of watch, and helps echo the functionality of the all-mechanical versions of the Emperador Coussin XL. Attached to the case is a black alligator strap.

I personally appreciate that Piaget is doing this as a true movement maker with true history in this area. Smartwatches have made electronic watches cool again and the traditional Swiss watch industry now has new reason to become reacquainted with its own history working with electronic movements. There is a sort of amusing irony to a watch like the Emperador Coussin XL 700P that I am sure is not lost to Piaget, but at the end of the day you get a very nice looking, very accurate, and probably very reliable luxury conversation piece.

 Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P Watch With Quartz Regulator Watch Releases 

We will continue to see how the luxury watch industry plays with unique concepts like this, which are strictly for the dedicated collectors who can appreciate the interesting things done here, and who can use the irony of the watch as an affirming reason to choose a watch like this. Of course, the 700P will be easy to criticize given the larger trend the luxury watch industry has had with its position toward men's quartz watches, but then again that just makes the conversation around what Piaget is doing all that more interesting.

Limited to just 118 pieces and presented soon at SIHH 2016, the Piaget Emperador Coussin XP 700P is priced at about $70,800. piaget.com




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